Focus on Fumé Blanc

 

Many people know that Fumé Blanc is made using Sauvignon Blanc grapes and refers to a style of wine rather than a grape variety. Strictly speaking, in Australia a wine labelled Fumé Blanc does not have to be made from Sauvignon Blanc exclusively, however in practice this is generally the case.

The name Fumé Blanc was devised by Robert Mondavi in the USA in 1986. Mondavi wished to distinguish the oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc that his winery produced from the fruiter, unoaked, tank fermented examples that dominated the market at the time. Fumé Blanc is a portmanteau drawn from the grape Sauvignon Blanc and Pouilly Fumé (one of the major French appellations that uses Sauvignon Blanc).

Sauvignon Blanc is widely planted in Australia and the early unoaked styles tended toward an oily character due to their cultivation in warmer regions. It was only when Sauvignon Blanc was planted in cooler wine regions such as Tasmania, Orange, the Adelaide Hills and the Yarra Valley where the climate allowed the crispness and the purity of fruit to shine.

Squitchy Lane has produced an oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc for many years with the wine commonly spending around six months in a seasoned French oak barrel. The aim is to subdue the flourishing aromas of Sauvignon Blanc while adding to the texture and mouthfeel of the wine. An added benefit to the oak aging is that the complexity in the resulting wine means that Fumé Blanc is capable of aging in the cellar, with wine produced in very good years able to be cellared for up to ten years.

Jeni Port from Wine Pilot wrote these kind words about the about the 2020 Fumé Blanc

“Definitely a case of less is more. A little less exuberant Sauvignon herbaceous-ness here – especially on the bouquet – and a little more textural appeal as is the Fumé Blanc way. Six months maturation in old French oak barrels contributes a smooth mouthfeel, while three years in bottle brings a touch of complexity. The scent of apple blossom and lantana lends a soft aromatic touch to snow pea aromas, sweet sugar snaps, dill, green bean and flint. Everything comes together and shines on the palate deepening to include flavours of apple, pear with added buttery, warm brioche. Finishes with a lick of saline rockpool, dry and clean.”

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